Sunday, September 27, 2009
Syria: Tabbouleh
Lebanon: Kibbeh
Israel: Israeli salad
Iran: Kabab
Middle Eastern madness!
Greece: Menu for a Grecian kitchen Odyssey
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Opa! My kitchen Grecian Odyssey
I never picked a country from the wine bag of fun this week. For starters, I wasn't home to do it. Life got busy, or at least busy enough for me to handle. I was too tired for menu planning.
Friday, September 25, 2009
The joy of solitude, especially when served with a scoop of creme fraiche ice cream
But most days, I eat alone. And while that may seem lame, I confess I actually really enjoy it.
When sharing a meal with friends, it is the people who captivate your attention (or should). The flavors and sensations of every bite can be easily lost in the distraction of a good dining companion and excited conversation.
So many nights I actually relish in the art of eating alone, when I can become fully present with my food, contemplating and savoring every bite in some sort of deep meditation.
Most evenings I perform this ritual in the privacy of my own home, dressed down in my comphies away from the judging stares of people who might wonder how a young woman ends up all by herself in a restaurant.
But tonight I dined alone in public.
I'm not sure exactly what prompted me do to this, except I guess it seemed like a good way to end an exhausting, frantic and all around crappy workweek. No need to go into the details, but we'll just say I got stuck late at the office three nights in a row, each night forfeiting better plans to pray at the altar of my editors.
I was all set to go to happy hour around 6 p.m., feeling cute in my hot pink shirt, skirt and heels and looking forward to a nice endcap to the workweek. But I never made it.
By the time I walked out of the building at 8 p.m., the happy hour specials had long run out and most of my friends were booked or retired for the evening.
I didn't feel like going home just yet, but didn't know what to do with myself. There was one thing I did have a handle on at this point: I was really hungry.
As I made my near weekly wine run at Whole Foods this crazy idea popped into my head: Why not go to Derek's?
For the uninitiated, Derek's is this cozy little gourmet restaurant in the Rosemary Court district of Sarasota. It's the kind of place where chicly painted canvases hang on the wall above wooden furniture covered in the most classic touch of restaurant style, white table clothes. The bottoms of the tables are even covered in soft, squishy foam so when one with particularly long legs goes to cross them during her meal she does not bruise them ...
But I digress.
It's the kind of place where the chef walks around the restaurant smiling at all his patrons and watching while his artwork dissolves in their mouths, covering their palates with his sensuous tango of flavors. Somewhere I read he trained with Emeril.
It's the kind of place I always want to go more often. But it's pricey - the entrees are all upward of $25 - and I usually can't get anyone to spring the cash to go with me.
I don't think the idea of going to Derek's by myself ever popped into my head, and if it did I probably brushed it aside right away to make room for something more practical. I always dreaded the thought of going to restaurants by myself to be pitied by all the happy families and bubbly couples. It always seemed better to save the money for a time I could go with friends and share the experience. And especially after a hard week at work, I'd always figure I was too tired to enjoy it.
But maybe I'm just getting old. Maybe more secure. Maybe I'm starting to realize that the days when I can go out and drop a decent wad of cash to treat myself - just me - to a phenomenal meal could be numbered. A friend of mine pointed out just a few weeks ago when we went out to eat "If we had kids think of how much this would cost us?"
How many people really have the luxury to go out and treat themselves to a three-course gourmet meal and be able to savor every morsel completely uninterrupted and free of the any guilt of not sharing it with spouse and/or children?
Perhaps this all dawned on me the last hour of my workweek, as I sat and pouted about missing happy hour and my co-worker fielded calls from his six-year-old daughter wondering when dad was coming home for dinner.
So when the idea to go to Derek's popped into my head, not only did I let it take hold I truly embraced it. (Besides, I was really good this week. I only went to Starbucks one morning and out for lunch twice.)
I went, I sat all by myself and I savored every morsel of food and every minute of the blissful solitude that came with it. And I laughed to myself - and somewhat pitied - the couple looking quite uncomfortable on some sort of awkward date, as well as the one taking pictures of each other across the table with their cel phones.
But none of that really matters. It was really about me and the food, all three courses.
I started with the soup of the day, a pureed celery root garnished with candied celery root and a blue crab salad. Chef Derek himself served it to me tableside, pouring the creamy broth over the elegant pile of crab meat. I immediately found comfort in the smooth, creamy broth, the savory flavor interrupted every so often by a sweet bite of candied celery or the tender blue crab. Every few bites I tasted something spicy, like dried chile.
I almost died when my main course of lamb shank dressed in cumin vinaigrette and some sort of date sauce arrived. The meat looked like it was just about ready to jump off the bone and into my side dishes of mashed chic peas and a cracked wheat salad. It met this fate as soon as my knife pierced the meat. I felt like I was eating the very best comfort meal anyone could ever find in the Mediterranean. At first my feelings were mixed about the cracked wheat. It had a very distinct texture like oatmeal and tasted, well, kind of wheaty. But as I worked through the rich meat and tangy chick peas I came to appreciate the contrast of the wheat salad, with bits of black olives, dates and onions in it.
By the time I shoved almost every bite on my plate into my mouth I was stuffed, but I had come way to far in this catharsis to leave it unfinished. The dessert menu arrived, and while I really craved the banana custard with ricotta doughnuts, something about the carrot cake called to me. Perhaps it was the idea of savoring one of my favorite childhood sweets, all gourmeted to the max and dolled up with creme fraiche ice cream that appealed to me.
I left the restaurant feeling full of good food and contentment.
Some people measure independence by one's ability to go through life not relying on other people for their own happiness. Maybe this was some weird step I needed to take, but never did in my years living by myself. To go out on my own and enjoy one of my favorite pleasures without having anyone to go with.
P.S. - This was actually the second time this week I ventured out to dine on my own, but my trip to Luna in Venice earlier this week didn't seem quite as ground-breaking. I just wanted lasagna. Maybe I'm on to something ...
Monday, September 21, 2009
Lambapalooza
This month's Saveur had extensive coverage of cooking with Lamb, including recipes from all over the world and tips on how to de-bone it.
If you are interested, check out this super sweet hyperlink I just figured how to add to my blog.
And by the way, I'm on round two of the lamb stew. The re-up is always tastier than the first time around. And man this stew really has a kick to it. It didn't SEEM like that much cayenne pepper...
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Mali: Timbuktu lamb stew with couscous
Friday, September 18, 2009
Surprise detour ... through Comoros!
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Next up ... Mali
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Myanmar: Mohinga, Part II
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Myanmar: Setting things straight, and on to mohinga
Second, I found a few recipes for the national dish mohinga. It is a fish soup made with catfish, ginger, lemongrass and other spices. It sounds similar to what the Vietnamese call Pho.
I started out with a grocery list of ingredients that included chickpea flour, crushed toasted rice, 4 garlic gloves, 4 onions, 1 tsp. lemongrass, a banana tree stem, 1 inch ginger, fish paste, fish sauce, catfish, 4 tbsp. rice flour rice broth, rice vermicelli, lime, crisp fried onions, coriander, spring onions and dried chili.
Issues with the grocery list: no chickpea flour, crushed toasted rice, banana tree stem, fish sauce. or rice broth.
Going into the grocery shopping, I wasn't even confident I'd be able to find lemongrass or catfish. I've never cooked with either one before. And to be honest, I don't think I've ever ate catfish and was skeptical they would sell this somewhat inferior fish at my local Publix.
It's important to note at this point that I live in a master planned community. My Publix sells fine cheese, duck, quail and creme brulee ice cream. One of my friends once insisted that all Publix's sell fishing bait and didn't believe me when I said I had never seen it there, despite having scoured like every inch of the store. Big surprise, we could not find the large buckets of bait they sell at Publix stores in Port Charlotte, and left with some frozen fillets. Another big surprise, we didn't catch anything.
So yeah, I was iffy about whether the Lakewood Ranch Publix would have catfish sitting side by side with swordfish.
I was indeed surprised that they did, but even more surprised that they had lemongrass in a little tube in the fresh herb section. Now, on to all of the other stuff in the list of ingredients.
In the future, I need to be a little bit more on top of it when it comes to pre-meal grocery shopping (one of my friends pointed out that all Publix's have the plantains required in my Panama dish ... I pointed out this is true, except when I need them). With a little effort and visits to specialty stores, I could probably find most things.
But the point of all of this is to have fun, and I guess I'm somewhat resigned to the fact that things like chickpea flour (also known as gram flour) may not be common mainstays in American supermarkets. So I will figure out how to do without them, or improvise.
In the case of the chickpea flour, we're going with improvise.
I've been meaning to buy a food processor for quite sometime, but like many other things in my life have not been moved by necessity to do so. But as I wandered the aisles of my fairly small Publix this evening wondering where else I could find ground chick peas I thought "Seriously. What do you really think chick pea flour is, besides ground chick peas?" So for $24 I threw a food processor and bag of dried chick peas into the basket.
I'm cutting my loss on the fish paste and banana stems (Seriously? Where the heck would I find those?). And how much fish flavor do we really need? Since I'm all up on the new food processor think I'll make my own crushed, toasted rice. Jury is still out on the rice broth.
Ode to my favorite wine, ever ...
The pleasure of a one pot meal, especially when recovering from too much fun lately
So about three weeks ago they descended on Sarasota, and more specifically my sacred little refuge. Before I knew it, they were in my apartment turning my nice, settled life of six years upside down, packing and stacking up all of the books, knick knacks and photos that hadn't been moved in years and piling them up in the kitchen. Before long, there was nothing left in my living room but the carpet stained by years of accidentally spilled red wine and coffee. (Before this whole ordeal began, my friend Elaine and I talked about kissing the old carpet good bye with a baptism by red wine. But then we realized the wine would be put to better use if we just drank it).
All of my belongings hovered in towers on the counters in my kitchen, my furniture lined up next to bed, when the carpet people showed up at 8:30 a.m. I stood watching them tear up my living room in some sort of trance as my mother shooed me out the door to the office. It's a rare event I get my butt to work before 10 a.m., and I think my editor found it amusing the new carpet installation was traumatizing enough to propel me so early into the office.
It really wasn't such a big ordeal. In fact, I got through it doing next to nothing. It was the whole metaphorical process of picking my whole life up, moving it around and leaving it unsettled and disorganized - if only for an evening - that I found so traumatizing. To me, a new carpet also felt like a commitment. It felt like I was pledging to stay in this very place a good chunk longer to make it worth the while. This was also all happening the week before school started, so I was stressed and busy at work trying to file a bunch of stories.
I walked into my apartment at the end of that day, already tired from my back to school preparations and terrified of what new projects my parents might have found to take on that morning. I immediately smelled the new carpet odor, and as I took the few steps down the hall to see my new carpet found myself smirking.
"So..." my mom said beaming from my living room as she put all of my personal belongings back in all the wrong places. "What do you think?"
She was so excited that for a brief moment I thought about just lying. Pretending like it was the greatest thing since manchego cheese or a bottle of Santa Alicia. But at that point I was already too tired, too overwhelmed and too drained. I just found the whole situation amusing.
"It looks ... well ... the same as the last one," I said laughing. "I guess it is cleaner."
I started moving methodologically through the apartment putting everything back in its proper place. For a moment I thought "Maybe this is the time I should just mix it all up. Leave it somewhere new. Aw hell. I'll just get to it later." We were up and doing random "projects" around the house all night. We finally finished to break for dinner at about 10 p.m.
Thus began all the fun, all the excitement, all the stress and lack of routine that has left me in the drained state I now inhabit.
Before they left the sunshine state, my parents took me to Disney, where we wandered around an amusement park in the August heat, ate with Remy (of Ratatouille fame) and at Wolfgang Puck's and Emeril's. They left me one Sunday, and I woke up the next day for the first day of class at a brand new high school at 7 a.m., when I had my Starbucks confiscated. Then ensued all of the 28th birthday celebrations, all of the Bobby Flay, chicken wing festivals, workouts with my brother and blog project shenanigans. Not to mention all the thinking and reflection that comes with every birthday.
I was drained when it all started and I was drained when I came back to Sarasota this week. It was all I could do to make it for two more birthday celebrations : ) After my friend Dan took me for a birthday drink (or three) at some point this week I knew I had it. I was in bed that night by 9:30. Somehow I made it to the weekend, muddling through all the tired and all the cranky that follows all of this over stimulation.
So one might believe it was good karma that after all these weeks of stress, fun and excitement, that I pulled a country with a national dish that amounts to not much more than a comforting and hearty chicken soup. What better way to kick back, get back in touch with yourself and relax your soul than chicken boiled and simmered in a pot with a bunch of yummy veggies?
I will admit that even as I write this I still don't feel like I've really taken a break, or as Jimmy Buffett once sang "a weekend off to try and recall the whole year." But an evening home in my comphies with a delicious one pot dish is a little closer than where I've been lately. I'm on to some more carmenere and carrot cake.
PS - Hope this was sufficient Emily! I am so fortunate to have friends who always point me in the right direction : )
Panama: Sancocho, Part II
So here's how I did it. As always, I'm not big on measurements. I'll give rough estimates, but use your best judgment and flavor to taste! The end product is a rich tasty stew that highlights the earthy taste of the root vegetables. You can taste the sweetness of the carrots and the sweet potatoes, balanced by the chiles, onions and garlic that give a kick to this dish. A fun and hearty take on chicken soup. I ate mine with a carmenere from Chile.
3 yellow onions
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Panama: Sancocho
I consider this a real score for me because I love making one pot dishes, especially soups and stews. There's just something about the ease of cooking and how the flavors get all melded together that I find appealing.
Sancocho is just that - a soup or thick stew made of meats, various root vegetables and spices native to the region. Some more Internet research shows that sancocho is actually a popular dish in many Central and South American countries. The recipes vary from place to place, with some using chicken or beef and others using ingredients as unique as a cow's stomach lining. One other country - Columbia - also claims sancocho as its national dish. That's not surprising since until 1903, Panama was part of Columbia.
The Panamanian version is commonly made with chicken, yams and an herb called culantro - apparently similar in taste the the more common cilantro.
I spent some time exploring the Internet and found that recipes for the Panamanian version are more difficult to come by than those from other places (like Columbia and Puerto Rico). I found a few decent ones, but like the potato pancakes was not entirely happy with any of them. I think I'll have to develop my own based on the best from all of them.
I used the other recipes to come up with a list of ingredients. Right now I'm looking at chicken thighs, potatoes, carrots, onions, plantains, yams (if I can find some), corn on the cob, garlic cloves, oregano, cilantro, green onions, salt, pepper and chicken broth. I'll look for the culantro, but am skeptical I'll find it in any of the local groceries. I'll update with a recipe this weekend after I have some time to experiment.
As far as beverage pairings go, it seems Panama is another big beer country. It appears most of the wine drunk in Panama actually comes from Chile, my favorite wine producing country (Yeah!) So I'll probably pick a few from there to pair with my stew. I may be in the market for a crisp sauvignon blanc. Although it's always hard for me to resist a good red, especially one from Chile.
Monday, September 7, 2009
One down, 202 to go...
In case anyone was wondering about beverage pairings ...
Germany: Gingersnap gravy and sauerbraten
Germany: Dumplings
10 white rolls
1 cup of milk
1/2 cup crumbled bacon
1 tbsp. butter
1 small onion, chopped
1 tbsp. chopped parsley
3 eggs
salt and pepper
nutmeg
What we did:
Rip the rolls into pieces and put into a bowl. Gradually add the milk. This whole gradual instruction is pretty important. We put in the full amount and ended up with bread that was too moist and had to add more bread. So put it in a bit at a time. You can always add more later when you've put in all the ingredients. You're going to want to mold them into little balls.
Heat the butter in a frying pan and saute the bacon. Add the onions and parlsey.
Add the eggs and spices to the bread misture, then combine with the hot mixture.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Shape the bread mixture into little balls and drop them in the water. Cook for 20 minutes. Serve with ginger snap gravy (recipe to follow).
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Germany: Potato pancakes
Germany: Black Forest Cherry Cake
The kirsch is the prominent flavor in the cake. It is a clear brandy that is made by distilling sour cherries called morellos that are native to Europe. This is not your typical chocolate cake. The cakes themselves are stiff, the cherries sour and the kirsch gives it a fairly bitter flavor. Definitely an acquired taste.
Ingredients:
For cakes:
6 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
4 squares of unsweetened baking chocolate melted (we used the choco bake things that Toll House makes)
1 cup flour
For syrup:
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
2 tbsps. kirsch
For the buttercream frosting:
1/3 cup unsalted butter
1 egg yolk
2 tsbs. kirsch liqueur
For topping:
2 cups drained, canned sour cherries
2 tbsps. confectioners' sugar
2 cups heavy cream, whipped
What we did:
Beat eggs, sugar and vanilla together until thick. This will take about 10 minutes. Blend in the chocolate and flour into the batter.
Pour the batter into 3 eight-inch round cake pans (already greased) and bake for about 10 minutes at 350 degrees. Cool the cakes about 5 minutes.
While the cakes are cooking, you can make a syrup by boiling the water and sugar for about five minutes. Cool it. When it is cooled, add the kirsch.
To make the the buttercream filling, beat the sugar and butter until well blended. Then add egg yolk and beat until fluffy and thick. This should take about five minutes. Blend in the kirsch.
When the cakes have cooled, use a fork to poke the tops of all of them with numerous little holes. Then pour equal parts of the syrup over all of the cakes. The liquid should get absorbed into all of the holes.
Now you can start assembling the cake. Take your largest cake round for the base and cover the top with some of the buttercream filling. Strain the can of sour cherries, and stick some of them in the frosting of this layer. Put the second cake on top, spread with butter cream filling and more cherries. Put the third cake on top.
The final step is to cover the cake with a whipped cream topping. To make the topping, just beat the whipped cream with the confectioners sugar until fluffy and thick (it should be like whipped cream). This will take about 10 minutes. You want this to be thick enough to spread over the cake. You should get medium-sized peaks as you come to the end of the beating.
Frost the top and sides of cake with the whipped cream frosting and decorate with cherries. Put in a safe place until guests arrive to avoid early hijackers.
Germany: Hot potato salad w/ bacon
Germany: Red Cabbage
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Bring on the brine!
We ended up going with an eye round of beef, since that's what the guy at the German store dad found recommended. I guess it has more fat in it than a higher end cut, like a top round. Apparently it also makes for a nicer, more traditional presentation.
Germany: Rhineland Marinated Pot Roast (Rheinischer Sauerbraten)
I feel compelled to include this link to Amazon.com where you can purchase her cookbook if you are interested.
Otherwise here are the ingredients we'll be picking up in a few hours after my little bro and I hit the gym (working off the calories is essential to this obsessive eating) and then brining it this afternoon so it can sit about three days.
Without further ado ...
5 lb. rump of beef
bacon or salt pork for larding + 4 slices
salt
3 cups white vinegar
3 cups water
3 large onion
3 bay leaves
14 cloves
8 peppercorns
1 tbsp. pickling spices
1 large carrot
3 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. flour
lemon juice
1/2 cup white raisins (Blah! I hate raisins. So does my sister But I'm guessing we're not going to win our lobby to exclude them. Dad says you need the raisins.)
tomato puree or sour cream (which we are actually skipping)